Video Conference

Talk live online with folks from around America who are saving their windows, via video, voice and text chat. (Even if you don’t have a camera or mic, you can still watch, and comment with text.)
See demonstrations of window repair and maintenance.
Learn about the most recent developments in materials, methods, tools and equipment.

View of a recent live online conference.

View of a recent live online conference.

Come back to this webpage for announcements of upcoming video conferences.

Click here for Permissions & Details

Replays of Past Conferences

Sash Rib Repairs, modern & traditional
(click on image to play)

View the Replay from the beginning in the big player in a new window
Go Directly To: Introduction
Go To: Modern glue a rib back on with modern adhesives
Go To: Assess conditions & plan the repair
Go To: Epoxy adhesive made by mixing consolidant & paste filler
Go To: Linda says, Linda uses adhesives that don’t require mixing & take less time
Go To: Andy says, he uses hot-melt poly-urethane adhesive for a quick 3-minute set & 24-hour full strength
Go To: Cleaning “squeeze out” after adhesive cures
Go To: Fasten rib with string, more sustainable than tape
Go To: Less is More. Replace just the part, even better repair the part.
Go To: Traditional Wood Dutchman Repair
Go To: V-Splice joint of new rib with old rib with a V-Scarf joint
Go To: Shaping the new rib
Go To: Linda advises on techniques for shaping the V-scarf joint
Go To: Plane down the face of the new muntin rib
Go To: Fasten down the rib with wire brads, spin, hammer & set
Go To: Paul asks, about types of brads, square-cut, made by Tremont
Go To: Brad spinner, Vermont American, Nail Spinner, #16621
Go To: Tremont cut-nail brads closeup, plain steel & galvanized
Go To: Paul says, …fun. I learned some things too. Thank you.
Go To: Closing & review of the two rib repair methods
Go To: Linda says, Thanks, John

Join the discussion on the Apr.5 video conference.


Glazing Sash
(click on image to play)

View the Replay from the beginning in the big player on a new webpage
Go Directly To: Introduction
Neal: Good mornin all. Checking in via chat.
Kara: Just owner of a couple old houses that need lots of window work. Valley City, ND
Bill Robinson: Bill Robinson here, New Orleans
Paul Marlowe: Hi to all conference participitants, I’m
Paul Marlowe Owner & Wood Rot Repair Specialist at ConServ Epoxy LLC and Marlowe Restorations LLC in CT
Go To: Putty Preparation
Go To: Glazing Easel & Sash Preparation
Go To: Putty ingredients, placing the bedding putty
Go To: Setting the pane of glass
Go To: Anne joins the conference
Go To: Warming the putty
Go To: Setting glazing points with Putty Knife & Glazing Hammer
Go To: Front Putty, place, pack and tool
Go To: Putty Kinves, In-Line tooling method
Go To: Packing the Putty & End-Edge tooling
Go To: Tooling all around a pane
Go To: Polish & Clean the Pane with Whiting
Go To: Tool inside of Pane & Polish
Go To: Paul asks, Why tool the inside of the sash last?
Go To: Closing
Neal: Thanks for demonstrating how it’s done. It doesn’t look that smooth when I do it.
Kara: Thanks for all the info! Can’t wait to try some of these out when the weather warms up. Hubby is for sure building a stand rather than working flat on a workbench.
Ann: Thanks for the great tutorial, John. I found it interesting cleaning the glass with the whiting Thanks again
Paul Marlowe: John, Thanks for good info. as usual and having this video conference.


Window Repairs
(click on image to play)
View the Replay from the beginning in the big player on a new webpage
Go Directly To: Scraping paint off muntin profiles
Go To: Removing glazing points with the Marshalltown scraper
Go To: Keith asks about DoodleBug scrubber pads discussion
Go To: Jamison asks about Reconditioning wood sash with Penetrol, linseed oil, turpentine.
Go To: Comparison of American & Swedish Glazing, preliminary results.
Go To: Spot Paint Maintenance, American or Allback Swedish materials?
Go To: Ken asks about Wood-strip glazing.
Go To: Laura asks about Removing shellac & paint from sash and re-shellacking.


Window Sash Glazing
(click on image to play)
View the Replay from the beginning in the big player
Go Directly To: John’s favorite glazing putty
Go To: Comparison of Glazol & Sarco Type M glazing compounds
Go To: Priming putty discussion, preventing wrinkling
Go To: Sources for Whiting, & alternate materials
Go To: Glazing Demonstration
Go To: Fletcher #5 Point Driver, diamond points
Go To: Priming putty discussion, preventing wrinkling

3 Responses to Video Conference

  1. scott woods says:

    Hey John,
    Great job, keep up the Great work.
    I don’t prime the raw wood were glazing goes, I was taught that the oil raises the fibers of the wood and helps with the bonding of the putty when cured. I use a small brush and boiled linseed/1/2 turp to replenish the raw wood.
    As far as paints go, I do not use anything but oil base primer and finish. Latex, acrylics don’t sand very well and in humid conditions they bond back to itself, never really curing.

  2. John Leeke says:

    Hey Scott,
    Thanks for your kind words.
    Boiled linseed oil & turpentine is the traditional treatment for the glazing rabbits, and still works well. The next time I use it I’ll have to watch for those raised fibers. I never noticed that before.
    Occasionally I’ll use oil-based primer in the glazing rabbits if I’m priming the rest of the sash. When I do I’ll glaze before the primer is completely cured to help bonding between the primer and putty.
    What putty, primer and paint products do you use?
    More details on painting and glazing sash over on the Forum:

  3. I am here in Louisiana, Nee Orleans.
    I am leaning toward not using oil based products in wood window restoring simply because it seems the organics in oil based products will promote bio-organic-growth.

    We have had some experience with growth appearing on glazing putty where an oil-based product was used.
    We cleaned the surface BOG with bleach and repainted with a latex product–so far so good.

    While I am not finding much scientific support here is a paper which seems to support this position.

    I believe this is an issue in humid climates and may not be such an issue in heating-predominant ones.

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