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Covers traditional methods and the latest in modern high-tech materials and techniques. Learn how to avoid falling under the spell of the window replacement salesman. Specific step-by-step repair and maintenance treatments. Window project profiles. National directory of 200+ window specialists who will save your windows and not try to sell you replacements. This is the new 2013 edition with many revisions, an all new chapter on sash glazing and painting; and an expanded directory with hundreds of window specialists, some in every state. 177 pages, 257 illustrations.
Figure 56. Filling Window Sill Weather Checks. Fill only the checks (cracks) … Do not coat the entire sill with epoxy which can trap moisture promoting decay … Step 4. Fill the checks with epoxy filler. The epoxy must completely fill the checks. For deep or very narrow checks first mix a batch of filler that is of a thinner consistency that tends to flow into the checks on its own. Spread it onto the surface and press it into the checks with a putty knife …
Step 6. Trim Filler. When the filler has cured trim off the excess. This is most efficiently done with a very sharp hook-type paint scraper. Skim off just a bit of the surface of the wood between the check to remove any wood that was saturated with the primer to reveal bands of bare, untreated wood. The bands of bare wood are needed to allow moisture to pass out of the sill…
Figure 62. Removing Sash. If the sash is still stuck use a “Window Zipper” tool. Lay the bottom of the tool flat on the face of the sash stile. The bottom is smooth and flat so it will not scratch the face of the sash. You may have to stick some thin tape or adhesive paper on the bottom of the tool or on the face of the sash to keep from marking the finished surface of the sash. Keeping the bottom of the tool flat on the face of the sash, run the curved toothed edge of the tool along the joint, sawing through the paint buildup into the joint. The top of the tool is rough and will rasp away paint buildup within the joint as well as rasp a little wood off the back side of the bead making room for the sash to move. Work the Zipper tool all along both side beads and the header bead if there is one. The exterior joint between the sash and the blind stop may also be painted shut, which you will have to work on from the outdoors side of the window.